February 2024 | Two best friends, one milestone birthday, and the warm soul of India
“Tea estates, spice groves in bloom, backwater canoe rides and barefoot Ayurvedic bliss — this was Kerala at its most soulful.”
🌊 Cherai – Between Sea and Backwaters
Our journey began in Cherai, a quiet village nestled between the Arabian Sea and the shimmering Kerala backwaters. Staying at Vala House, a four-room hideaway with heart, we settled into the gentle rhythm of local life.
We watched the Chinese fishing nets rise and fall and rose early to explore Munambam Harbour, where fishermen auctioned their catch, the sites and smells to be seen to be believed. A walk through Chendamangalam’s synagogues and churches gave us a glimpse of Kerala’s diverse, layered history — before a memorable riverside dinner with our most wonderful host, on a fishing net pontoon brought our day to a close.
🌿 Thattekad – Birds, Kayaks & Forest Canopy
Next came Birds Murmur Camp, a serene glamping site overlooking forest and water. In the famed Thattekad Bird Sanctuary, we spotted elusive species like the Sri Lanka Frogmouth and watched monkeys swing from tree to tree.
We kayaked silently through the tributaries, swam from a bamboo raft, and visited a local family who opened their home and garden to us, shared a feast and cooking wisdom. This was the local experience in Kerala of our dreams — earthy, gentle, welcoming.
🍃 Munnar & Manupetty – Misty Tea Hills & Tribal Trails
On our way to Manupetty, we stopped at the Lockhart Tea Estate, watching hilltop workers harvest leaves and learning the fine art of tea-making in its original form.
At Spice Tree Chinnar, we stayed in eco-luxe cottages on a working fruit farm, where rugged views were the norm. A trek into Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary, guided by a member of Hillpuliya Tribe, revealed a drier, more arid landscape full of birds and wild flora – then the incredible river — the diversity of Kerala was astonishing.
💆♀️ Rajakumari – Spice Trails and Serenity
In the high hills of Rajakumari, Spice Tree’s nine villas offered a moment of stillness. Ayurvedic treatments soothed tired limbs and we were introduced to the spice gardens learning about cardamom, pepper, and clove straight from the earth. The simple, healthy food, the stillness, the views — bliss.
⛵ Alleppey – Drifting into Birthday Dreams
We descended into Alleppey’s backwaters, boarding our private Xandari houseboat just in time for my birthday. The onboard chef prepared fresh Kerala dishes as we drifted past villages, fisherman and coconut palms. That night, under stars and gentle rocking waters, we slept in the peace to be woken at sunrise by the boat meandering back to its mooring.
“A private canoe ride through the backwaters — just us, the breeze, and life as it’s always been lived.”
🏖️ Mararikulam & Cochin – Seaside Farewells
At Xandari Pearl, our final stop, our cottage was nestled in a palm garden just steps from the sea. We swam, sunbathed, lost bikini bottoms, and laughed a lot. Dinner at Murari Beach Hotel capped it off.
On our final day, we returned to Cochin to site visit boutique hotels like Malabar House and Old Harbour Hotel, ending with an elegant farewell dinner at Brunton Boatyard.
A Soulful Celebration
Travelling through Kerala was a sensory celebration — of friendship, food, nature and culture. Every place we stayed told a different story, and every person we met left an impression.
We came for our 50th birthdays — we left with a lifetime of memories.
